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"Running With the Devil" May 19-21, 2006 Catskills, NY (Indian Head, Twin, Sugarloaf, Plateau, Westkill)
Trail: Devil's Path Elevation of Peaks: Indian Head (3573'), Twin (3640'), Sugarloaf (3800'), Plateau (3840'), Westkill (3880') Elevation Gain: ~9000' Miles: 26 Time: 8 hours 12 minutes
I had one thing in mind for this hike: Finish it in as fast as a time as possible. That's not because I don't enjoy the trail. I just wanted to see how fast I could run/hike it. The trail itself is very challenging. It's roughly the distance of a marathon with 9000' of elevation gain over steep and rocky terrain. Many of the descents are equally as brutal. A few years ago, Backpacker Magazine called it the hardest dayhike in America. That is of course arguable, but it's still a testament to its difficulty.
I met up with Bruce (Pennsy), Rob (EarthNSky), Ken (ATRunner), Todd (CrazyPace), Jay (Swamp), Zac (Lumberzac) and Blain Friday night at the Devil's Tombstone Campground where we would be staying. The campsite is also located just a few hundred yards from the approximate halfway point, making resupplying easy. Bruce and I stashed our bear canisters loaded with food that night to save us some time during the run.
The Start
Most of our group planned on hiking the trail, but Bruce and I planned on running the sections that allowed it, and for the first few miles we did just that. We enjoyed a good pace until the trail began to take a steeper turn up the face of Indian Head, forcing us to drop our speed to a quick hike. I began to pull ahead of Bruce here, but it wouldn't be the last time I'd see him.
I soon reached the summit of Indian Head and worked my way towards Twin. The descent down warranted caution but much of it was still runnable. At times I felt like I was playing Dance Dance Revolution as I hopped from one solid rock to the next. I had an uneventful trek up and over Twin as well as Sugarloaf, continuing to run the flatter sections and speedhiking the rest. While going up each peak, I'd yell "Awwooooo!" and got a reply back from Bruce in turn, who was never that far behind.
Midway
By the time I reached the ascent of Plateau Mt., I was running low on water and needed to fill up. I stopped at as stream and quickly began filtering water. I was only carrying a fannypack and two 20 oz. water bottles, but because of the cool temperatures, wind and overcast skies, I wasn't sweating much, which was fortunate. I added Gatorade mix, munched on a Clif Bar, and took off up Plateau, which is one of the steeper, more heinous sections of the Devil's Path. I looked down and saw Bruce and we yelled to each other. I'd see him again midway.
I huffed and puffed my way up Plateau and rejoiced when I reached the top. Like the name implies, the top is nice and flat for a mile or two, and I enjoyed running that section at a good lick. I soon reached the descent and made my way down to the approximate halfway point, making it there in 4 hours and 15 minutes.
I found my canister and added more Gu and Clif bars to my pack while I mowed down a banana. After filling up my bottles again with water and Gatorade mix, I got ready to take off. Just as I was doing so, Bruce came running down the trail. We asked each other how we were feeling, and we were both doing great. With that, I was off up the col between Hunter and SW Hunter while he resupplied.
Bonk!
I ran the entire downhill to the Diamond Notch Falls, which was a few miles long, passing a few hikers along the way. It was rocky going down, but not terribly steep so running it was pretty easy. By the time I reached the bottom, I felt a little little light-headed and weak, and that really magnified as I began ascending up Westkill.
I grew very tired here and my body felt like it was shutting down. I had hit that proverbial wall, and it wasn't fun. I just wanted to sit down and cry like a little girl, but I trudged on and began thinking about eating. A few times, I saw things out of the corner of my eye, notably what appeared to be a bat the size of a turkey vulture flying amongst the trees. I knew that wasn't a good sign, so I wised up and mowed down a peanut butter sandwich, a shot of Gu, and some Gatorade. After a few minutes I felt my strength returning and I ate a Clif Bar just to seal the deal. Soon after, I was good as new, and picked up the pace. I felt reborn and was in good spirits.
All Downhill From Here
I reached the summit of Westkill, unintentionally scaring a Jamaican women as I passed. Her two kids had both seen me coming, but failed to warn there mother. I lightly slapped the summit sign as I ran by and began the descent. Aside from the notorious "Speedbump", it was pretty much all downhill from here on out.
Knowing that the Speedbump really took some wind out of my sails last year, I began mentally preparing myself for it and only lightly ran the section leading down to it. I soon saw it, the steep 150' or so ridge, staring at me in the face. I proceeded up, but it didn't seem that bad. In fact, it was quite easy compared to last year. This was a good mental boost. At the top, I yelled "Awooooo!" at the top of the Speedbump in the direction from where I had come, but didn't here a reply from Bruce. I then began running the final stretch back to the car.
Whoa.
I soon saw the sign where the trail turned and it read 1.5 miles to the car. I had thought I remembered it being two-something miles, so that was a pleasant surprise. I looked at my watch (kept in my bag, and only the second time I had looked at it so far), and I was shocked. I thought I had been going nine hours at this point, but I had only been going around 7:50! I had hoped to break nine hours, and I was stoked to learn that I'd be well under that.
Fueled by adrenaline, I ran that last 1.5 miles at a quicker pace, and rejoiced when I saw the parking lot. I had finished in 8 hours and 12 minutes, much better than I had originally hoped for. I was very stoked.
I had the key to Bruce's car, and I got out my lawn chair and waited. I had just barely sat down when I heard Bruce yell down, and he crossed the endpoint in 8:20! He had been on my heels the whole time.
We each cracked open a cold one and waited for the others. Ken was the first one we saw. He finished in 10:08, which I believe was Mtn.Goat's time last year.
Todd came in next at 11:20, looking fresh but also glad to be done.
A few hours later Rob, Zac and Blain all came down the trail together to finish in 12:20. After resting a bit, we all headed back to the campsite to feast on steaks and brew-ha-has.
Great time, and great challenge! Thanks for a fun weekend everyone.
Endpoint Pictures:
Jamie - 8 hours 12 minutes .........................................................Bruce - 8 hours 20 minutes
Ken - 10 hours 8 minutes ...........................................................Todd - 11 hours 20 minutes
Rob, Blain and Zac - 12 hours 20 minutes
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